Big Island, Hawaii
The Big Island – a name that bears great weight, but truth be told I didn’t know much about it. And if I’m being really honest, I wasn’t sure how Kona was going to measure up to what I had grown to love about Oahu and Maui. However, I had always planned on visiting every island, it was just a matter of timing.
A few months ago, I remember it was barely lunchtime and I had already dubbed it an excruciating long workday. I was checking my personal email and nearly spat out my coffee when I saw Southwest’s Flash Deal appear in my inbox. Roundtrip, direct flights for 40% off to any of the main Hawaiian Islands?! I jumped, no, LEAPED at the opportunity to discover my 3rd Hawaiian island; and quite easily convinced three friends to join me. I was beyond excited to explore what The Big Island had to offer. I assumed it was a quieter island with a more peaceful demeanor, which was true, but damn, did I get so much more.
We did a 5-night stay at the Big Island exploring:
Kona — Kailua-Kona, Kealakekua Bay (west)
Hilo — Wailuku State Park, Volcanoes National Park, Kilauea and Mauna Loa Volcanoes (east)
Kohala/Waimea — Waikoloa, Kamuela (northwest)
DAY 1: KAILUA-KONA
It had been a grossly wet start to 2023, and although I was thankful California had finally been getting a decent amount of rain, I wanted no part of actually being in it. As soon as I landed in Kona, that familiar island air immediately overtook me and that switch in my head instantly flipped to vacation mode.
We took a cab to our hotel, the Courtyard Marriott King Kamaehamaeha in Kona-Kilauea, the downtown area, just 15 minutes from the airport. It wasn’t check-in time yet, so we dropped off our luggage and began to walk downtown. The entire strip is about 1 mile long before entering residential neighborhoods. Although the Big Island’s landscapes are far wider than Oahu and Maui, it is much less developed. There are miles and miles of open land between each city. The major cities include: Kona, Waimea, Volcano and Hilo.
We were famished from the long flight and were desperate to get a snack that would sustain us until dinner. We randomly came across Island Lava Lava, which serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner! For drinks, I had a Li Hing Mui Margarita and also tried my friend’s Guava Lemonade. These cocktails are available at most restaurants along the strip, but I must say the Li Hing Mui Margarita here was the best. It was really well-balanced and not overly sweet. I finished it way faster than I’d like to admit! We also shared House Salad, Mahi Mahi Tacos, and a Poke Bowl. The Mahi Mahi was fresh and delicious and I loved their vinaigrette dressing - really refreshing and perfectly balanced. The Ahi Poke Bowl was good but heavy on the aioli, I recommend getting it on the side or asking for less of it in general. But overall, a solid lunch spot that I want to revisit to try their breakfast dishes and full seafood entrees!
After inhaling our first meal, we realized we still had another hour before check-in, so we randomly walked into Da Shark Shack, where we got our first round of Mai Tais of the trip. I am pretty sure it is written somewhere that you must have a Mai Tai upon arrival to Hawaii, and it needs to come with an umbrella so you really feel like you’re on vacation! The Mai Tais weren’t anything special, but they weren’t bad and the vibe here was so chill that you can tell it’s a local hangout spot for sure. I loved that we had a view of the main strip and the beautiful ocean right behind it. I would be open to trying other cocktails or just a regular drink here since they’ve got a full bar. Overall, it was an easy, no-BS kind of place we would return to.
After we finally got checked in, we excitedly got ready for dinner and walked to Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill. They offer happy hour on weekdays between 4-5PM throughout the restaurant, so we strategically made a 4:45PM reservation to get a discounted first round and rolled right into dinner - GENIUS, highly recommend executing exactly as we did! I was in the mood for a martini and they had a LIlikoi one, delicious! I would go light on the lilikoi though since it’s such a sweet juice. Food wise - I would not have changed a single thing that we ordered, everything was sublime! The Mac Nut Ahi Tartare were individual bites of heaven. The seafood trio was a real treat because you got ahi tuna, a crabcake, and an extra large shrimp all in one dish! The crusted fish of the day was Mahi Mahi, so it was a no-brainer. ALWAYS ORDER THE MAHI MAHI. I don’t care how it’s prepared, I promise you it will always be delicious! Finishing our meal with the Chiffon Cake was the perfect sweet ending to our amazing meal. The coconut heaven was like a dream, sending me straight back to the hotel for a lovely full night’s rest.
DAY 2: HILO
We were up early for our car rental (highly recommend using Turo), and stopped by HiCO Hawaiian Coffee for breakfast before our 2-hour drive north. I love this place! They must pick up their pastries close by because their Pistachio and Coconut Malasadas were INSANE. They were so delicate, fluffy, and soft on the outside, perfect amount of cream on the inside. I was so happy I decided to be a fatty and try two kinds! I came back multiple times to HiCO for their UBE SWEET CREAM COLD BREW. Yes, it exists, and yes, it was heavenly. I’m not into sweet drinks, and this Ube Sweet Cream was just enough to pair with the cold brew. To pair with my lovely coffee, I also tried their Avocado Toast which is an avocado mash with shredded carrots over toasted sweet bread. Although I am a total carb gal, I think their avocado-to-bread ratio needs review. I think more avocado is necessary to enjoy that thick sweet toast. But still, I ate it all! I loved this place so much that I came back in the afternoon just to try their HiCO-Tini, aka Espresso Martini, and it was delicious! Definitely hit up HiCO for your breakfast or happy hour needs!
We drove 30 minutes north of Kona to Punalu’u Black Sand Beach, famous for its black sand and turtle sightings. Unfortunately, I didn’t see any turtles, but other friends of mine did later that day. so it’s worth an attempt :)
We made our way to Kilauea Overlook located in Volcano to check out the craters and lava tubes. Do yourself a favor and buy your $30 ticket per vehicle ahead of time. We saw the craters first, from a distance, and it was so cool to see steam coming up from the ground and even small waves of lava spurt up. You could also walk through a non-active crater if you want to, but I was happy to stay at a high point haha. We then drove a few minutes to the lava tubes. Lava tubes are basically underground passageways. They form when significant amounts of lava travel long distances. Once the eruption stops, it leaves behind an empty cave. The lava tube I walked through was cold and dark. I needed to use my flashlight from my phone in addition to the lights they had installed. The fact that I walked through a “small” lava tube blew my mind because the naturally created structure of it alone was astonishing. Some lava tubes are miles and miles long! Culturally it’s important too, historically providing people and species with shelter and storage. Once we exited the lava tubes, we took a nice, easy walk for about a mile, with gorgeous views along the way. In the last photo, you can see a trail inside the crater, where some people opt to walk through. For us though, we opted for lunch.
Instead of eating lunch in the Volcano area, we drove another 40 minutes north to Hilo, where there were more food options. We had lunch at Hawaiian Style Cafe, a cute little local diner offering Hawaiian comfort dishes like Loco Moco and Poke Bowls. It was SO hard for me to pick my entree because everything sounded so damn good. We shared the Macnut Panko Mahi and Wailoa Bowl - along with a Mai Tai and POG Mimosa (juice on the side). The drinks were okay, which is what I expect from a diner (duh, haha). The Macadamia-crusted mahi mahi completely took me by surprise - they freaking nailed it! I received a really generous portion of perfectly cooked, not overly crispy mahi mahi. It came with salad and rice - not sure what was in that dressing but it was amazing! I finished the whole damn thing. Jacob had the Wailoa Bowl which is basically like a super upgrade to your standard poke bowl. In addition to rice and poke, the bowl also included garlic chicken and crispy garlic shrimp. This entree massive, and I was especially impressed by the size of the shrimp. I wish I had the stomach space or more people with me so I could have ordered things! If it’s your first time, come for brunch and consider ordering the Banana Macadamia Nut Pancakes or Sweet Bread French Toast along with some savory dishes. And if you manage to still have room, I spied a sexy-looking Guava Cake too!
After lunch, we went straight to Two Ladies Kitchen, known for making the best mochi on the island. They’re only open Wednesday-Sunday from 10-4PM, so make sure to plan accordingly. They also take phone orders a day ahead of time if you know what you want. This tiny little shop offers so many kinds of mochi, it was both overwhelming and exciting waiting in line. They offer traditional, manju (baked), strawberry, and contemporary (modern) mochi. They also have fruit flavors of the day and randomly mixed sets at the register. I was lucky to be standing next to a local who went through the list with me — but honestly, everything she said sounded so amazing I don’t know if it helped or hindered my final order! I ended up ordering a mix of traditional, strawberry, and modern mochi. HANDS DOWN my favorite was the Butter Mochi. It’s a buttery cake-style mochi and is perfectly sweet without needing any filling. I think the texture of the Butter Mochi just cannot be beat. I could seriously eat a box of those in one sitting! An incredibly close second favorite would be the Oreo and Strawberry Shortcake. I think for me, while I really liked traditional mochi and appreciated the subtle flavors on top, the Butter Mochi texture-wise just hit different. Oreo and Strawberry Shortcake mochi sent me straight into nostalgia, it was such a fun way to eat my favorite snacks from childhood. My favorites happened to all be under the Modern list of mochi, but I was really happy I tried some from every category to really understand the different nuances. I highly recommend you do the same! No matter what your favorite flavors are - fruit, red bean, peanut butter, sweet potato - literally this place has something for everyone. It’s 100% worth the drive to stop by!
We made it back to Kona’s main strip just in time for both happy hour and sunset! There’s a few restaurants that have a direct view of the ocean, and on most nights you’ll be able to grab a seat and enjoy a little show too. There’s really nothing more soothing to me than some acoustic Hawaiian music. Jacob and I initially were just grabbing some drinks at On the Rocks, but eventually, the music and overall vibes had us order another round and share an entree too. Always order the fish of the day, especially if it’s Mahi Mahi, which it often is! Every restaurant will do its own spin on it, but honestly, you can never go wrong with ordering Mahi Mahi. Here, the Mahi Mahi is flat-top grilled, furikake crusted, and came with two sides! The Mahi Mahi was a bit underseasoned but grilled beautifully. I think if I were to choose between Macadamia crusted versus Furikake crusted, I will give Macadamia the edge. Our two sides of choice were sweet potato waffle fries and furikake seasoned fries - yes, fries on fries! Both were well well-seasoned and crispy. Overall, I would recommend this spot for a casual hangout with friends.
We finished the night at A Bay’s on Ali’i which is a restaurant and bar literally open all day, they open at 7:30 and close at midnight, offering 3 menus - breakfast, lunch, and dinner. I consider their menu to be mostly American with a Hawaiian twist. My friends tried their seafood cakes and loco moco and enjoyed themselves, but overall we agree we love coming here for the drinks more than the food. My favorite drink here is the A-Bays Mai Tai, not just because it’s a properly made Mai Tai, but because it’s topped with a lilikoi foam! It’s the only restaurant on the entire strip that I know of that offers the lilikoi foam. Usually, I can only get a lilikoi foam-topped mai tai at Merriman’s or Monkeypod by Merriman’s so this was a real treat for me, especially to introduce to my friends who have never tried it before! We also enjoyed the Hawaiian Painkiller here, and we ended up at A-Bay’s second location in Waikoloa Village to catch the 49ers game a few days later. Their mimosas were 95% bubbles to 5% juice, just the way we like it Definitely my pick for any sports watching!
Day 3: KEALAKEKUA BAY AND KAILUA-KONA
We needed to kick off the day with a big breakfast since we would not be back until early afternoon. Since my friends were new to Hawaii in general, I really wanted to find some real-deal local comfort food and people to experience. I was intrigued by Nephi’s Smokehouse's mom-and-pop shop vibes, and after seeing some photos of their food, it was a done deal. We were ravenous and everything on their handwritten menu sounded freaking delicious. We truly struggled to make a final decision. Leave it to Jodi to save the day! The moment we met, I could just feel her sincerity. Even though she was handling phone and takeout orders, she was also patiently helping us narrow down our decisions, even suggesting customizations. Nothing made my heart happier because I truly wanted a bit of everything! We ordered:
Poi Balls - Oh my goodness little fried heavenly bites straight from the heavens! I’ve never had fried poi balls before, they were the cutest little appetizer, lightly fried on the outside, super moist, and slightly sweet on the inside. So freaking happy we randomly ordered those!
Ube Pancakes with an extra side of Ube Sauce - HAVE MERCY. Whatever I have done in this life to have earned the opportunity to eat those Ube Pancakes - I thank whatever God or spirits out there. The pancakes on their own were PERFECT. They weren’t too dense or too fluffy. It was genuinely the perfect consistency. As soon as I dipped my pancake into that ube sauce, I walked straight to the register to buy an extra side for $1. The ube sauce is so decadent, I’ve never had anything like it in my life. Even Jacob, who isn’t much of a sweets person, kept eating those pancakes. They brought us all pure joy.
2 Loco Mocos — each with 2 Eggs over Easy, Beef Patty, and Spam over Fried Rice. We added Portuguese sausage to one order and Smoked Pork to the other. I LOVE that we got to add multiple proteins to try a little bit of everything. What separates these Loco Mocos from others: (1) fried rice instead of white rice — if it’s not fried rice, I don’t want it! (2) covered in gravy, all the way to the top of the takeout box (3) perfectly runny eggs — if it ain’t runny, I don’t want it! (4) quality of meat. They make their own Portuguese Sausage and Smoked Pork in-house. Their spam was perfectly cooked and crispy on the edges. Their beef patties are thick and grilled with a beautiful char. Don’t even get me started on their gravy, I could drink that stuff all day.
The food hit every happy feeling I had ever known - but separate from that, what I really appreciate about Nephi’s is the family that runs this business. Jodi is actually Nephi’s sister and their uncle Mark is one of the cooks. Their Portuguese Sausage is Nephi’s recipe, while their smoked meat is their dad’s original recipe.
During the pandemic, Nephi’s opened their doors to those in need, especially the elderly, by providing free meals. And they still help those in need today. Beyond that, their family began to sponsor an annual scholarship fund for young students with big dreams. There’s a collection jar right at the register if you ever get a chance to visit Nephi’s. Alongside it, you’ll see their family photos and newspaper clippings of their story. Everything about this place echoes a humble community and I was truly moved when Jodi endearingly said “We try to practice aloha here” because I could feel it in my heart the significance of that statement.
If you’re in Kona, please visit Nephi’s. Obviously, the food is top-notch comfort food, I still have yet to encounter an ube sauce better than theirs! But in addition to the amazing food, the people here. Just wow. The level of hospitality that Jodi and her family give is like no other. I really felt like part of the family by the time I left. I will never casually read or hear the word ‘ohana’ the way I used to.
After our amazing breakfast, it was time for the Kona Snorkel Tour. We were stoked to go on this 3-hour Wildlife and Reef Snorkel Adventure which consisted of an amazing tour of sea caves, coves, and lava tubes on a high-speed boat, encounters with wild dolphins (sometimes whales too, depending on the season), and snorkeling along a large reef of Kealakekua Bay. A major selling point for us was this boat fits a maximum of 14 guests, keeping the group size small and personal. Of course, we were all excited for snorkeling, but the big reason I chose this tour was to hopefully see wild dolphins. Dolphins are my favorite animal, so the word excited DOES NOT EVEN BEGIN to describe how I was feeling! We saw wild dolphins multiple times throughout the tour and it was pure magic. Since you are out in open water, you get to see these beautiful creatures in their natural environment, rather than in captivity. They were jumping in and out of the water, swimming in their pods, just completely wild, happy, and free. Our hosts stopped and turn off the boat entirely, just to allow us to take in the view. I vividly remember those few moments, so quiet calm, and peaceful. I remember admiring the warm sun reflecting against the ocean, shining on my face. It had been the most tranquil moment of the trip so far.
After the excursion, we were all ready for ice cold drinks and snacks! Since we were staying in Kona, it only made sense for us to visit the Kona Brewing Company. I’m not a beer gal at all simply because I get so bloated and have a constant need to excuse myself to use the restroom. However, I do enjoy small tastes. Each of my friends ordered themselves a 4 x 5oz fights. The pub offers light, wheat, pale ale, red, IPA, brown and poter - there’s something for everyone! This pub had a really fun atmosphere, very relaxed and chill. It was easy to order, enjoy, and exit in a short amount of time. On weekdays they have happy hour too, so be sure to check it out, especially if you’re going in a group!
After all that beer, it was only fair I requested a cocktail next, right? TOTES. We were on the hunt for a pina colada since our trip began too, and noticed Umekes offered their version of one. It also happened to be 20 steps (okay, maybe 40 steps) from Kona Brewing Co. I’ll be honest — Umekes wasn’t a priority on my list because it seemed a bit corporate and overly trendy, but decided to share a few bites:
Kona-Colada - Cinnamon, Star Anise, Clove, & Brown Sugar Spiced Spin on a Pina Colada with Lime Juice & a Hint of Sea Salt. YES- Absolutely yes.
Raw Oysters with Bug Juice — classic, fresh and refreshing. Their bug juice was a pseudonym for their version of a mignonette. Yummy, but 3 for $15 was a bit steep for me. Holler if you’re a baller though!
Luau Oysters — broiled oysters with taro leaves in garlic butter and coconut milk. My friends enjoyed these, but I will forever be a raw oyster gal - they don’t need all the razzle-dazzle
Poke Flight: (1) P.O.D: Chef’s daily poke creation (2) Kanaka: Ogo: Hawaiian chili pepper, onions, shoyu and oyster sauce (3) Sweetie: sweet shoyu glaze with onions and furikake (4) Hawaiian: dry rub of inamona, limu kohu, sea salt and red pepper — My favorites were the Hawaiian and Kanaka because the seasoning elevated the poke the best. It allowed the fish to shine rather than overpowering it. The sweetie had a slightly sweet note to it, but I didn’t mind because it was a nice contrast to the more savory picks. The only one I didn’t care for was the POD (the special that day) because it was an aioli-based poke. If aiolis are your vibe, definitely go for it — call me traditional but I think less is more when it comes to poke
Sauteed Mushrooms — sauteed with onions in shoyu garlic butter sauce; CHEF’S KISS! Nothing beats a savory sauteed mushroom dish, seriously! Shoyu and garlic butter are such a sexy combination! Damn, now I’m salivating.
Lau Lau — shredded pork seasoned with Hawaiian salt, wrapped and steamed in taro leaves. This dish also comes with your choice of side and rice. We chose fried rice and seaweed salad. If you haven’t had Lau Lau in general, you absolutely need to in Hawaii. Since the pork is wrapped in leaves and then steamed, the texture of the pork is so damn decadent, it melts in your mouth. And since it’s slow-cooked, it’s quite forgiving too, so it’s rare you’ll be disappointed with a dish like that. I would order that dish again for sure
Overall, I still think this restaurant is more tourist-friendly and corporate-forward, but I think that’s what brings in a wide audience. The dishes are still of Hawaiian origin, but they managed to add a modern twist to everything. We were pleasantly surprised with our experience and were ultimately happy we came by!
As we made our way back to the hotel, I called Sushi Sam’s to check on the wait time since I was under the impression they didn’t take reservations. Out of everything in Kona, this was the restaurant I was most excited to try. The owner, Sam, confirmed he had no availability and I went into crisis mode. It turns out they recently started taking reservations and there were none left for me to snag that day. Since the restaurant was next door to our hotel, I walked in and introduced myself. I offered to sit outside, stand at the bar, purchase takeout, and literally anything to eat here! He promised he would call my cell if anything opened up. I was ready to give up on the evening, including the late-night exclusion we had planned afterward. Dramatic, I know. I’ll take that. I knew the restaurant was going to be closed for the remainder of our trip and I was just so broken-hearted! About 30 minutes into my meltdown, my phone rang. Four bar seats opened up and were ours if we could get there in 10 minutes. I don’t even think my friends were hungry but they knew how excited I was about this place and dragged my sorry ass over!
WOW. Just WOW. This experience was way beyond my expectations (and they were high). Sam, Haruki, and the entire staff, really, were so accommodating and genuine. Right off the bat, the menu was 10/10. The menu was simple, not offering too much — it focused on the fish. The nigiri was priced per piece, and the sashimi was priced per five pieces. This is my ideal scenario because it allows me to try more menu items. I often find that there is too much rice when I order nigiri, but Sushi Sam did it right. After asking many questions, I ordered:
Sake (Salmon) Nigiri — salmon is never a bad decision, but this salmon was so fresh and decadent, even the color of it was astonishing
Anago (Sea Eel) Nigiri — not to be confused with unagi (freshwater eel), was fantastic, I got a generous portion and appreciate the way it was delicately handled, just lightly coated with sauce. It allowed me to really taste the sea eel. If you prefer the traditional unagi sauce and sear, stick with ordering the Unagi. I really wish I ordered both to compare!
Tamago — I saw this on another table and was really intrigued because the color on it seemed different from what you typically see, it looked really traditional and I had to have it! Best tamago I’ve had to date. Maybe it was the marinade or how it was cooked, I’m not sure, but it was delicious. It also was an amazing ratio of egg to rice!
Toro (Fatty Tuna) - this was my favorite, it literally melted in my mouth, and although it came with 5 pieces, I devoured it so quickly it’s like I had only 1!
The rice-to-fish ratio at Sushi Sam was perfect. 90% of places I go to overdo it on the rice. The knifework of the fish was unrivaled, too. Each slice was long, with ideal medium-thickness, resting beautifully on sushi rice. With no stomach space left, I reluctantly closed my tab. Thank you so much, Sam and Haruki for the hospitality and accommodating us. Thank you for respecting the food you put out and being passionate about your craft. Sushi Sam is a must-go for all my sushi lovers out there. And please, don’t be like me. Do yourself a favor and make a reservation!
We finished the evening with a Manta Ray Night Snorkel! This activity is specific to Kona because manta rays congregate a short boat ride from Honokohau Harbor. It’s nearly guaranteed to see manta rays and it was the closest I’ve ever gotten to a sea creature in my life! This was also a small group tour, which I can’t recommend enough. The crew helped us gear up and gave amazing commentary on the history and specific behaviors of the manta rays we were surrounded by. The 6 of us held on to a floatation device that exuded a bright light underneath it. That bright light attracts plankton, food for the manta rays. There must have been 4-5 different manta rays total, with one doing belly flips literally an inch from me. It was such a cool experience, they are so much bigger in person! This is a must-do excursion!! Several pro tips:
Book a later time slot when it’s actually dark out. You want the light under the water to be bright enough to attract plankton and ergo manta rays
You will be entering and exiting the ocean in the evening, it will be cold
Mentally prepare yourself, the wet suits are not full body, they are are more like thick thermal long-sleeves
Bring extra towels and loose pullovers to quickly warm up once you get out of the water
Secure a ride home right as soon as you exit the boat. We didn’t have a car so we relied on an Uber. Even though we requested one right away, it did take awhile to get picked up. Kona sleeps early, so it’s harder to find a ride late in the evenings, especially by the harbor since it’s away from the main strip
DAY 4: WAIKOLOA and WAIMEA
We rented a car and drove about 30 minutes north to Waikōloa to spend the day. We arrived at Queens’ Marketplace, which includes a bunch of retailers and restaurants along the Kohala coast. We walked to Island Gourmet Markets, an AMAZING marketplace that offers fresh food, groceries, and souvenirs! This is the perfect place for snacks, especially at odd hours if restaurants aren’t open yet. I nearly fainted at the sight of all the fresh poke.
After breakfast, we walked to Kuleana Rum Works for our rum tasting! Seriously you guys, this was the most fun afternoon I had in a long time. Chelsea, the manager of the restaurant and a genuine advocate of the brand, hosted the tasting and knocked it out of the park! She is truly the heart of this brand, and this experience would not have been what it was without her. She tied every description with a memory. She unlocked all of our senses, inviting curiosity and an authentic dialogic. I liked the white rum the most, probably because I tend to gravitate towards vodka and gin drinks. The boys really liked the dark rums because they were reminiscent of whiskey. When the tasting was over, we stayed for a round of cocktails. All of their signature cocktails feature one of their rums, but they also have a full bar for whatever you may be into. We ordered their signature:
Old Fashioned — Nanea, Huihui, falernum, local macadamia nuts, angostura bitters, clear ice block, agave, kiawe, smoked (optional)
Mai Tai — Huihui, Nanea, Hawaiian Rum Agricole, Pierre ferrand dry curacao, macadamia nut orgeat, angostura bitters, mint sprig
The boys really enjoyed their Old Fashions, which were made with high-quality and unique local ingredients. The smoke show was a really nice touch! Teesha and I both opted for their Mai Tai. Apparently, the original Mai Tai is not like the ones you usually order on the beach with those cute little umbrellas! Did you know that?! I’m so glad I ordered their version because it truly did not taste anything like the ones I usually order. It was lighter in color and incredibly refreshing, I could drink it all damn day! While the rum tasting itself was about an hour, we were pushing 2 hours by the time we had to skidaddle for the next tasting appointment.
It’s safe to say I still don’t know much about rum, but I enjoyed the ones I tried here! We really loved that the tasting goes beyond just tasting rum. We learned how Kuleana Rum Works built its brand. What was truly astonishing is how Chelsea became part of that brand, without really intending to, initially. Our conversation naturally transitioned to the effects of the pandemic, and how it permeated throughout Kona, in some ways more severe than Oahu and Maui. I came out of our conversation with so much perspective. This experience really echoes the vibes of the Big Island.
Chelsea is incredibly humble and sincere, operating with a high degree of integrity. She never tried to push sales, she let the rum and experience speak for itself. Her positive spirit and gentle approach just hit my soul. She’s the real deal and it felt like I had known her forever by the time I left. I know she will be a familiar face I can count on connecting with the next time I’m in Kona. Seriously, what are you waiting for? Book your tasting already!
After the amazing time at Kuleana Rum Factory, we walked over to the Marriott Resort and Spa to get access to Waikōloa Beach where we spent an hour laying out on the warm sand and enjoying the water. The perfect mid-afternoon snoozer! From there, we freshened up and hit the road! We had reservations at Merriman’s in Waimea, just a 25-minute drive further north.
Have you heard of Merriman’s before? I tried Merriman’s for the first time in Maui several years ago and was immediately smitten. Now, I am proud to provide free marketing for his brand because I love his food and am inspired by his commitment to sustainability. Peter Merriman is one of the founding chefs who developed the official Hawaiian Regional Cuisine, drawing local ingredients and fusing a variety of ethnic culinary influences. Merriman’s in Waimea was the first restaurant he opened, which features elevated regional Hawaiian cuisine. Their cocktail and wine lists are spectacular. Their Mai Tai featuring Lilikoi Foam is my favorite cocktail. Their wine selection never ceases to amaze me, and y’all know while I’m not picky, I definitely have my preferences. Every meal is thoughtfully prepared and farm-fresh. The service is top-notch — incredibly welcoming and patient. Delicious does not even begin to describe the food here. I love that they keep the menu simple, never trying to do too much, but doing what they do offer incredibly well.
We walked in excitedly, mostly me, because I know what they put out and it was my friends’ first time. I had been talking up this place to them, especially their Mai Tais all damn week. We took our seats and immediately ordered a round of Mai Tais.
I hope Merriman’s never ever changes their menu style! I am convinced the best kind of menu is a Prix Fixe one that includes options. People have so many dietary restrictions these days, and while I want to respect the chef’s creativity and vision for the meal, I also understand that sometimes there are ingredients that just don’t work for someone. Merriman’s Prix Fixe menu offers 3 courses, allowing the guest to specify their pick in each course.
How perfect was it that the Prix Fixe menu this specific evening featured a “Vive la France” wine pairing? I opted for a mix of white and red, and boy, was that a great call:
Famille Bourgeois, “Les Jeunes Vignes” Sancerre Rosé 2020
Domaine Barat, “Vaillons” Chablis, Premier Cru 2019
Domaine Michel Gross, “Hautes Côte de Nuits” Bourgogne 2019
My favorite way to experience a meal is to start with champagne, then transition to a light and crisp white, and finish with a beautifully balanced red. Red Burgundy wine has become my favorite varietal as I explore wines from different regions because of its versatility and structure. Whether you are eating fish or red meat, a red Burgundy exists for you! It was no surprise that although all the wine was phenomenal, the Michel Gross burgundy from Hautes Côte de Nuits had me swooning the hardest.
For the first course, we ordered:
Hawaiian Style Shoyu Poke (crushed avocado, inamona, ogo, green onion, moloka’i sweet potato chips) — I expected, but was still blown away by how fresh this poke was, and the sweet potato chips took it to the next level. The crunchy, slightly sweet (but appropriately salted) taste of the chips really balanced the classy, delicate poke
Grilled Wild Shrimp Bulgogi (local cabbage and spinach slow, kamuela cucumber kim chee) — Jacob picked this one, it was a wild card to me. I was worried the Bulgogi sauce would be sweet and that the shrimp would be swimming in it. What an idiotic thought that was! This dish is a wonderful representation of ‘Regional Hawaiian Cuisine,’ fusing Korean and New American ingredients. The sauce elevated the dish while ensuring the shrimp was still the star
Lobster and Tomato Salad with Champagne Vinaigrette — Godamn it Peter Merriman, how will I ever eat a salad the same way again?! This plate literally has 3 main ingredients, but gee whiz the execution is unmatched. If you look up fresh in the dictionary, there should be a photo of this dish. Upon the first bite, I wanted to fall off my chair and die happy. No question, this was my favorite of the first course.
For our 2nd course, we enjoyed:
Macadamia Nut Crusted Fish (garlic jasmine rice, laulea marinated cherry tomatoes, Hamakua mushroom miso reduction) — Yes, you can find this dish on nearly every dinner menu in Kona. However, the award for best Macadamia Nut Crusted Fish goes to Merriman’s. They subtly elevated the components of this dish individually and then married them all together to complement the perfectly cooked fish. This was my favorite entrée.
Butcher’s Cut Lamb (jalapeno whipped potato, pineapple mint chimichurri) — My favorite part of this dish was the pineapple mint chimichurri. I can like that sauce off of just about anything! It was the perfect tangy, herbaceous sauce to cut the richness of the lamb.
Prime Bone-In NY Steak (Szechuan peppercorn rub, whipped potato, herb butter) — This thick, juicy steak was cooked beautifully. The whiff of the herb butter and seared peppercorn was so intoxicating that I had to taste it immediately upon its arrival. My apologies for the partial photo you see below.
Finally, for dessert, we all chose the Pineapple Macadamia Nut Bread Pudding (butter rum sauce, vanilla ice cream). I mean, what screams Hawaiian cuisine more than that? Especially coming from our rum tasting, that butter rum sauce sealed the deal for us. Although we were bursting at the seams at this point, there wasn’t a crumb left by the time we were ready for the bill.
If you’ve never been to Merriman’s, I consider this restaurant a must-experience, similar to the way I urge trying all the Mai Tais when in Hawaii. It’s just something you need to indulge in. There’s a Merriman’s in Oahu, Maui, and Kauai now, and I encourage you to try all the locations. Personally, I think the price point is incredibly fair for what you get. Merriman has also opened more casual dining spots on the other islands in recent years, where their signature Mai Tai is also offered. What are you waiting for? GO!
DAY 5: LAST DAY IN KAILUA-KONA
I couldn’t believe it was already the last day on the island. We left the day completely open, to really just take our time and enjoy before it was time to head home. I started the day with an outdoor yoga class at the Marriott, which was super relaxing. Slow stretching while taking deep breaths of that fresh Hawaiian air — true state peace. I am a pretty high-functioning person day-to-day, but when I’m in Hawaii, everything surrounding me needs to be savored and I naturally slow down my pace.
After yoga, Jacob and I spend the morning walking through Kailua-Kona, watching locals surf, and browsing a few outdoor markets. People in Kona are so grounded and sweet, it’s really easy to strike up a conversation. Before we knew it, we were heading back downtown for lunch. We first stopped by Kalikala Cusine for an $8 POG mimosa at the bar. They were kind enough to acquiesce to my request to keep my juice separate from my mimosa. I always want to be the decision maker of my bubbles-to-juice ratio. As we people-watched, we realized how packed it became, with families coming in and out like a revolving door, and a limited staff to support it all. Kudos to them for hustling and maintaining a smile the entire time. Come here if you are looking for a quick, simple, more American-style breakfast. They offer fruit plates, benedicts, french toast, and waffles. We already had plans for sushi, so we gulped down our mimosas and were on our way.
Sushi Cocoro was exactly the vibe we were searching for. It’s tucked behind the main strip — incredibly low key sans crowds. The menu is simple in terms of the types of fish they offer and is really affordable. Seriously, where can you find sake these days for $8 at a popular vacation spot? I’ll wait! The rolls here come in smaller portions too which is perfect! It allowed us to try more things on the menu. We basically had a tuna party and it was divine. It is definitely the perfect under-the-radar spot if you want a break from typical Hawaiian food and crowds.
After lunch, it was seriously time to walk it off. Lucky for us there was a market event happening on the main strip! I’m not sure if it’s a weekly thing, but I was so ecstatic I got to experience it. I absolutely love supporting small businesses. Two hours literally flew by just browsing, meeting business owners, and hearing their unique stories. Some of my favorite stands included:
Koey’s Poi Balls: Alright I know I just had lunch and could barely breathe but I HAD to make room for poi balls, it’d be sacrilegious not to, right? Right! I met Keala, who was running the show at Koey’s (her daughter’s name). These perfectly fried bites were drizzled with ube sauce and I just about died. I finished my entire portion and did not offer to share. I was not sorry. Keala really makes these treats with love, you can taste it in every bite.
Da Big Island Burn: These hot sauces are amazing! I love that they are a thin liquid, rather than a thick sauce. I bought Keahi (hottest), Da Green Flasher, Burn Da Mouth, and Pele’s Flame. All of these pack some heat and are made using simple ingredients. They are more vinegar-based and you can put it on anything! I’ve used them for my morning eggs, fried rice, and over any protein. It always adds a little something when I feel like my meal is lacking flavor. The flavors are more associated with spice level than flavor, so I have to say my favorite is the Keahi, of course, since I’m always chasing the heat.
Hamakua Creations: I loved talking to the owner, Crysta. I was really inspired by how she turned her passions into a businesss, and her refreshingly honest feedback regarding the road to getting there. All of her teas have purpose and intention, use local ingredients native to Hawaii, and are caffeine-free! I bought a few for myself and a friend and we both agree that her teas are incredibly unique and delicious. I really regret not picking up honey while I was there, don’t make the same mistake I did! I guess I’ll have to Crysta next time I’m in Kona!
While I woke up feeling incredibly sad when I saw my last sunrise, I also left so appreciative of the people I had met who reminded me of the meaning of aloha and the strength of community. This was a soul (and belly) filling trip.
We packed up our things and had our last breakfast at Papa Kona, the perfect place for classic Hawaiian cuisine! GUYS - you must, and I repeat, you MUST order the Ube Espresso Martini. Hands down the best damn thing. We also had a round of Ube mimosas which were fantastic - heavy on the bubbles, and light on the syrup. If the idea of ube weirds you out, I beg you to reconsider because, honey, you are missing out! For food, we shared the Loco Moco and the Traditional Eggs Benedict with Kalua Pork. Now THIS is how you breakfast - protein stacked with an obscene amount of sauce sending you into savory heaven.
After breakfast, we sadly checked out of our hotel and headed to Ola Brew for a last round before heading to the airport! Did you know Ola Brew is employee and community-owned? All of their brews are handcrafted at their brewery in Kailua-Kona, so we were ecstatic to support them. Since I’m not a beer gal, I had zero expectations coming here. I was pleasantly surprised to see an offering of hard seltzers, hard cider, and even hard tea! I tried the lemon lime hard seltzer, ginger hard seltzer, Kona gold pineapple hard cider, and dragon fruit lemonade hard cider! Every flavor was unique and refreshing, absolutely perfect for summer and a lovely end to our wonderful trip.
I was especially sensitive about leaving Kona because of the connections I made with locals. Kona is a different vibe from the other islands. All supplies they receive have to go through the main island first before getting to them, often leaving this gem of an island to experience delays or price hikes. Despite inconveniences and hardships that may hit the island, people remain humble and kind. I left with feelings of heightened privilege and awareness. I hope I can visit Kona again, sooner rather than later. Until then, I will be practicing ohana the way the remarkable inhabitants of Kona have so gracefully taught me. See you soon, friends!
