Paris, France
If you’re going to Europe for the first time, chances are that Paris, France is on your itinerary. Call it cliché, but facts are facts honey, and I am not an outlier here. In 2022, an estimated 44 million people had visited Paris, 24.7 million of them being tourists. I fell in love with Paris the moment I exited my first metro station. Everything from the language to the food to the lifestyle completely consumed me. So much so, that I began learning French seriously in 2021. November 2023 marks my 5th trip to Paris. Why am I sharing this information? Because I’m trying to convey that first, I might know a thing or two about Paris (from an American point of view). Second, the Parisian experience is unique to each individual so I encourage you to collect as much information prior to planning your trip.
Novelist Margaret Wolfe Hungerford said, “beauty is in the eye of the beholder.” Paris has so much to offer, so naturally, the internet has an insurmountable number of recommendations varying in wide degrees. Every recommendation you read about online is someone’s truth. I sincerely hope my entry is easy enough to digest and can aid you in planning Paris in a way that excites your inner child! In this entry, you’ll find:
Tips before you travel
Getting from the airport to your accommodation
Recommendations by district/neighborhood
Sightseeing
Restaurants and nightlife
Activities (shows and cooking classes)
Tips Before You Travel
Travel off-season: Spring (late-March to mid-May) or Fall (late-November-mid December)
Weather is much more favorable because it’s neither snowing nor unbearably hot and mosquito-infested. Granted December is colder, but the city is also extra dreamy and bright with Christmas decor and mulled wine
There are fewer crowds and minimal lines since school is still in session (watch out for Spring Break)
Reservations are easier to obtain in advance
Travel light: Only bring a carry-on and a backpack on your flight (neither should be packed to the brim)! I promise you that whatever you are thinking of packing, is already too much. Many Airbnbs and hotels often offer laundry service should you really be in need. Remember that you will go shopping in Paris. You will appreciate the space later.
Shoes: 2 pairs. 1 pair the comfy sneakers on your feet and an alternate in your luggage, extra credit if it’s an old pair that you may want to throw out at the end of your trip
Clothes: Layers to prepare you for whatever mood the weather is in. Stick to a 3-color maximum scheme because it allows many outfit combinations without sacrificing space. Pack 2 jackets, a light one in your luggage, wear your thicker one on the plane
Toiletries: Minimize and distribute them into smaller, spill-proof containers (like these). The smaller, the better because you honestly will not use all the contents in them. I used 2 x 12 ml and 2 x 18 ml containers for 2 weeks and had plenty left over
Backpack: Once you’ve checked in to your hotel, leave your backpack in your room and adventure with your wallet in your front pocket or a small satchel under your jacket (positioned under your hand either to your side or in front of you) to avoid pickpocketing
Electronics: Pack a power bank, universal travel adapter, and a few EU plug adapters. Being on an international phone plan always ends up draining your battery pretty quickly, so you’ll want to carry that power bank with you if you’re out and about all-day
Duffle Bag Option: Most airlines will give you 1 free checked bag if you fly from the US. I advise against checking in a bag when getting to your destination to avoid lost luggage. Instead:
On the way to Paris: put your backpack in your empty duffle bag to serve as your personal item. Or pack a foldable duffle in your backpack
On the way home: check in your carry-on, keep your now-expanded and filled duffle as your carry-on and your backpack as your personal item
Avoid foreign transaction fees:
Bring travel credit cards that don’t charge you foreign transaction fees. If given a choice between USD and EU in a store, choose EU because the conversion rates are better
Pull cash from an ATM upon city center arrival since the exchange rates are better locally. Be aware of the fees your debit/credit card will charge you. I like to use a Charles Schwab or SoFI debit card because my ATM fees are usually/mostly reimbursed. To my knowledge, there currently is not a bank that exists in both France and the US. In the UK, there’s HSBC and in Spanish countries there’s Santander. Regardless, whatever your bank charges you will be less than whatever the airport would. I tend to pull the maximum €300 amount to ensure I won’t be visiting an ATM a second time/incur more fees. Leftover euros? Pay your last dinner in cash, spend it at the airport, or save it for your next EU trip
Shop Tax-Free
VAT (Value-added tax): European-based brands are usually already priced lower than the US since there are fewer logistics involved to get products into stores. Additionally, any price tag you see in a store also includes a 20% VAT. As tourists, we are allowed to receive 12% of that back when we exit the country
Example: Félicie Pochette Monogram Empreinte by Louis Vuitton sits at a cool $1,770 including tax if purchased in the US. In Paris, the same bag costs €1,250 ($1,348). Considering your VAT refund saves you 12% bringing your actual total to €1,100 ($1,186). Congratulations, you just saved $584, about 33%. The travel light tip suddenly makes a lot more sense, huh?
Create a Global Blue account to track purchases and tax refunds. You should also use it to keep all of your personal information up to date
Go shopping! If you spend over €100.01, that receipt can be claimed for a tax refund — but be sure to let the sales associate at the store know you are a tourist so they can get the claim form started for you. Save the printed form (with barcode in the top right corner) and the receipt they give you.
Cash vs Credit Card refund: Stores will give you the option of receiving your refund via credit card or cash. ALWAYS pick credit card because it’s efficient and easy to track on Global Blue
Check your forms: Make sure each form clearly lists your refund method and pertinent personal information
Scan forms at the airport: Kiosks are located before the security checkpoint. Back in the day, you had to wait in a long customs line for some level of audit to get your stamp to validate your refund. Today, most stores will print a form for you with a barcode so that all you have to do is scan that barcode at the kiosk when you get to the airport. The kiosk will show a green checkmark if your refund request has been accepted, and Global Blue will also notify you. You can expect a refund on your credit card statement within 2 weeks
Getting to your accommodation
From the Paris-CDG airport customs area, follow signs for the RER B rail to get you to the city center. You will see machines for train tickets — look for the ones that say “Navigo” on them so you can purchase a physical card for €2. Add a day pass for Zones 1-3 (that covers pretty much all of Paris city center). The physical card is easier to scan than inserting a tiny paper ticket that I guarantee you will lose. It also allows you to reload the card using your phone instead of waiting in line again. I highly recommend this because once you get to city center, the metro is the fastest and most efficient mode of transportation.
From RER B, you will need to transfer to one of the 14 metro lines to get to your destination. You may have to hop on more than one metro line to get there. For example, if you are staying at the Courtyard Marriott Gare de Lyon, you would need to take the RER B, to M1, to M14, before walking 2 minutes to your destination. Google Maps is your best friend here, so be sure to map out your journey in advance. Filter your Google map options to exclude busses, that way you only see the rail and metro options.
If you feel overwhelmed, it’s okay — breathe. The rail and metro lines run every few minutes, so if you miss one, there’s one right behind it. Focus on knowing where you are and having your belongings with you. Make sure your backpack is closed, have one hand on your carry-on handle, and one hand holding your phone.
RECOMMENDATIONS
ATTRACTIONS, ACTIVITIES, Food and Fun Sorted by Districts
Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements (districts). The first district begins in central Paris, and the numbers of each district increase in a clockwise spiral on a map. Each arrondissement is divided into four quartiers (quarters, aka neighborhoods).
Exploring all 20 districts is simply impossible, so I’ve divided the map below into 5 general areas. If it’s your first time in Paris, I recommend staying 4-5 nights so you can explore the majority of the blue, orange, and purple (my personal favorite) areas. If you have more time, consider the pink and red areas.
The only way to experience Paris is to walk through it, and your trip duration will determine your map coverage. The best advice I can give you is to not stack your itinerary and to take your time. Trust me, I know it sounds crazy (I’m a type A planner myself) but you will get more out of this if you are relaxed and give yourself space to soak in the European lifestyle!
YOUR FIRST TIME IN PARIS - SIGHTSEEING
LE Premier (1st): TOURIST SIGHTS AND ATTRACTIONS
LE huitième (8th): LUXURY SHOPPING
Le sixième (16th): VIEWS
Start your day in District 1 at the Marché Saint-Honoré or Marché Saint-Eustache-Les Halles marketplace for a snack or a meal, there is something for everyone! From there, it’s just a 10-minute walk to the Musée de Louvre. This is the home of over 35,000 paintings, sculptures, and art objects from both famous and anonymous artists of many different origins and eras, including the Mona Lisa! Since it’s the most visited museum in the world, be sure to buy your tickets in advance.
From the Musée de Louvre, walk along Rue de Rivoli to the Palais Royal and Jardin des Tuileries. These are beautiful sights that are free to the public. While you’re on that street, stop by Angelina, the most famous Parisian tea room, known for le chocolat chaud à l'ancienne (old-fashioned hot chocolate) and le mont blanc (meringue combined with lightly whipped cream and chestnut cream). My friends and I scored a lunch reservation here and could not have been happier to spend time in their beautiful tea room. If you’re short on time, don’t worry, there’s a boutique at the entrance where you can pick up drinks and sweet treats to-go! I had:
Jacquart Rosé: Fresh with lovely delicate fruity notes recalling yellow peach, raspberry, and redcurrant along with floral notes reminiscent of elderflower. Great length with minerality and lovely crisp characters on the finish
I think my love and curiosity for brut rosé began here. I don’t know about you, but I don’t like sweet wine at all. So when it comes to champagne, I prefer brut (0-12 g/L of residual sugar) or extra brut (0-6 g/L of residual sugar). Brut rosé (compared to brut champagne) adds a bit of freshness and fruitiness without making it sweet. I will always love champagne, but it’s nice to mix it up with brut rosé too! It is available in the States and retails for $50, so maybe next time you’re at the store, try this bottle of this instead of the usual Veuve Clicquot!
Filet de Bar Rôti: Roasted fillet of seabass, canneloni of oyster mushrooms, celery and chervil puree
Given this is a tourist spot, I had no expectations and ended up being so impressed. My seabass was thick and moist and paired so well with the herbaceous-ness of the celery and chevril puree. And that oyster mushroom canneloni? Get outta here! I could eat those like french fries!
Mont Blanc: This completely lived up to the hype and I can see why they sell 700 of these a day, just from the Rivoli boutique alone! It was rich and light at the same time, just a truly well-done dessert
Angelina Thé (Angelina tea): This was the perfect way to end our meal since we still had places to go! I wish we had room to try the hot chocolate too, but we knew we would have fallen asleep if we did
If you’re sticking around for dinner, make a reservation at Le Comptoir de la Gastronomie: A delicatessen and wine shop by day, and a restaurant by night. I have been here several times with friends and I always leave smiling and bursting at the seams. The menu here changes from time to time, but here are the classics that always have a home, that we always order:
Escargots de Bourgogne: Burgundy snails in orders of 6 or 12
Os à moelle grillé: Pan-roasted bone marrow
Escalope de Foie gras de Canard poêlée: Pan-fried duck foie gras
Magret de canard: Grilled duck breast
Their menu usually offers 3-4 appetizers, a soup, and a seafood special. Always order whatever pan-seared fish they offer because they achieve the perfect level of crisp every time! We also love the dessert here, specifically their profiterole (filled with scoops of ice cream) and pretty much any cake!
Le Louchébem: An old-school brasserie (french pub). Brasseries are known to be lively and include steak and fries. Louchébem is slang for butcher, so it’s no surprise this place is known for its beef. They offer so many cuts of beef that my placemat literally had a diagram to help me out! We enjoyed:
Drinks
Coupe de Champagne de Marque €12.50
Glass of a brand-name Champagne, no idea what the brand was but we enjoyed it
Château Gran Baril Montagne-Saint-Émilion 2018
Solid pick! We went with a bottle of Bordeaux because it was a better price point, versus by-the-glass. Bottles at this restaurant range anywhere from €28 to over €100
Food
Rillettes d’oie: Goose Rillettes
If you’ve never had rillettes, you haven’t lived! Rillettes are typically made of pork, chicken, or duck (it can also be fish). To make rillettes, you chop or shred your protein and then mix it with some of the fat it was cooked in. It’s then preserved for a few hours. Once it solidifies, you spread it on bread like you would butter. You really can’t go wrong with rillettes because it’s always tender and flavorful. I love the goose one here, very meat-forward and impossible not to finish
Oeufs pochés à la sauce de grand-mère: Poached Eggs in Grandma’s sauce
This dish is a play on oeufs en meurette, poached eggs in a red wine sauce — I love this dish from Burgundy, so whenever I see it on a menu, I have to order it. Le Louchébem’s version used a base of beef stock, which is different from the traditional, but incredibly flavorful and so fun to sink my bread into
Filet de boeuf dans la point (maigre & très tendre): Lean and tender fillet of beef
It was so hard to narrow down which cut I wanted because traditionally, I like to order the entrecôte (boneless ribeye). France does an amazing job with entrecôtes so it’s rare that I deviate. However, given the time of night and the fact that I already had tapas a few hours earlier, I decided to go with a leaner cut and I was really happy with it! I also appreciate they offered two sizes because I did not have the space for the bigger one
Note: Be specific about how you want your steak cooked. Although medium-rare is translated to à point and rare is translated to saignant, I find that ordering saignant is a true, tender medium-rare
Poivre et Moutarde sauce: Peppercorn and Mustard sauce
Le Louchébem offers an impressive 6 sauces! I had the peppercorn sauce because it is simply the best, I cannot be convinced otherwise. Something about the peppercorn highlights a steak perfectly. I was pleased with the mustard sauce too, it was really balanced rather than tangy. Although the steak was well-seasoned, I loved the autonomy of dunking my steak into my sauce without judgment
ARC DE TRIOMPH
The iconic monuement honors those who found and died for France in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. It sits at the beginning of the Champs-Élysées and is connects 3 districts. Its location is also the center the famous (and crazy) 8-lane Place de l'Étoile roundabout. Tourists can take one of two underpasses to get to the arc for a tour, and from there, a lift to the terrasse to enjoy a panoramic view of the city
Wherever you are in District 1, continue in the direction of the Place de la Concorde. This is the largest square in Paris, where you will find two beautiful fountains (Fontaine des Mers and Fontaine des Fleuves). This also transitions you to the 8th district.
The 8th district is famous for luxury shopping, but it also houses the Arc de Triomphe, Grand Palais, Petit Palais Musee des Beaux-Arts — all of which are worth at least walking through when you’re in the area.
From the Place de la Concorde, walk along the Cours la Reine, enjoying the view of the Seine River along the way. This will lead you to Avenue des Champs-Élysées, the world’s most beautiful avenue and the heart of luxury shopping. If you’re going to shop anywhere in Paris, this is it! It’s where you can live out your bougie dreams and have champagne while you do luxury shopping. Most luxury brands have their flagship store in this district, with other locations throughout Paris. I save all my pennies in the States so that I can do all my tax-free shopping in Paris. Nothing beats the shopping experience here.
As you walk down the avenue, stop by Pierre Hermé or Ladurée for macarons! Then, check out the iconic Galeries Lafayette Champs-Élysées. This gorgeous department store is one of three locations. This location features 4 floors, 650+ brands, and a lovely food court. If you think that’s big, it isn’t even their flagship store (scroll down to district 9 for more details on that location)!
Be sure to book the Seine River Cruise as part of your sightseeing adventure! For a mere €16, you can enjoy gorgeous city views for an hour! They offer lunch and dinner packages too, which is a cute idea, but not worth it because you’re sitting on the lower deck. This means your views are through windows throughout dinner. You can upgrade your packaging to be sat at the front of the boat, but you’re still sitting on the lower deck. The best view of the river is from the upper deck, where there are no windows and plenty of fresh air! Also, basic lunch packages start at €75, and basic dinner packages start at €95; we can make better choices.
When booking, notice the meet-point location because there are 3 of them. I recommend the Vedettes du Pont Neuf port because it’s conveniently located in the 1st district. The other ports are in the 8th/16th district by the Eiffel Tower, further away from city center.
After the cruise, it’s just 650m (9-minute walk) to Rue Saint-Denis and Rue des Lombards, where you can find plenty of casual bars and bites to conclude your evening.
Not ready for bed? I wasn’t either. Indulge in a Parisian cabaret at the Crazy Horse de Paris. I freaking love that Paris celebrates feminity and this show was both sexy and tasteful. I left feeling so empowered and extra motivated to hit the gym! I admit, tickets are a bit pricey at €75/person for the evening show. My friend Torrie and I spent about €135 each since we added a bottle of champagne. They also offer dinner packages, private shows, and discounted matinée shows. I liked what we picked though, the bottle of champagne was plenty to have for the one-hour show.
To wrap up this sightseeing section, a quick shoutout to the 16th district simply because of the awesome free photo opportunity. If you have time early in the morning or before sunset, head to the Palais de Chaillot. It overlooks the Jardins du Trocadéro and has the best view of the Eiffel Tower!
While in the 16th district check out La Coincidance. This cozy restaurant had modern decor but was busting out classic French dishes that still have me salivating to this day! For lunch, my friends and I shared:
Saint-Jacques, endives caramélisées, jus de viande (scallops, caramelized endives, meat jus)
I’m not sure if I had meat jus in a scallop dish before this experience but damn! The jus and caramelized endives provided this flavor punch that elevated the seared scallops. It was ridiculous
Filet de boeuf sauce champignons, purée de pommes de terre (beef tenderloin with mushroom sauce, potato puree)
As phenomenal as the scallops were, the beef fillet had me falling off my chair. It was covered in a decadent mushroom sauce that has ruined me forever. I was already a sauce girl before, but this experience had me questioning the validity and portion of any other sauce I ever had. And as generous as this restaurant was with the sauce provided, there wasn’t a streak left on my plate because I soaked it all up with bread
Moelleux au Chocolat (chocolate lava cake)
Even though I claim to not be easily swooned by sweets, I fully admit there was nothing left of this cake
If you’re still around, enjoy a few cocktails Cravan Paris. They have two locations, so if you have shows and attractions booked in the 1st/8th district, go to the location in the 16th district. Otherwise, there’s another location in the 6th district.
These are pricier cocktails for sure, but damn are they dangerously good. Their cocktail menu has 4 sections: Royals (elevated champagne-based cocktails), short drinks (stronger), tall drinks (lighter), and classics like margaritas and French 75s. The Royals ranged from €22-€45 because of the kinds of champagne used, and everything else was between €16-€18. I expressed to Tat, our bartender, that I didn’t like sweet drinks, but I did want balance. She happily broke down the menu for me, guiding me to the short drinks section. Don’t be shy to ask your bartender for a recommendation because they know these drinks inside and out. I probably would have picked different drinks if Tat hadn’t explained them to me. I had:
Campagne-Première: Lemon vodka, verbena syrup and lemon, egg white
The Lady from Shanghai: White peach gin, jasmine tea, lime
Torrie and I had 2 different drinks each and were incredibly happy with everything. Mine were so refreshing and balanced, while Torrie’s was smokey and unique. I didn’t know it at the time, but this place is widely recognized by household brands like Condé Nast Traveler and Vogue! After having such an amazing evening experience, I plan to come back for a late lunch where I can experience their champagne cocktails along with their chic menu items!
PARISIAN CHARM
Deuxième (2nd): HISTORIC PASSAGEWAYS
Troisième (3rd): Marais
Quatrième (4th): Marais/Hôtel-de-Ville
My favorite part about traveling is getting away from crowds and immersing myself in local neighborhoods to experience the culture and lifestyle. After you get some of the more touristy things out of the way, spend time in these under-hyped districts to experience Paris differently.
Of course, there are plenty of attractions in the 2nd district, like the Le Grand Rex (the largest operating movie theatre in Paris) or Palais Garnier Opéra House (inspired by Phantom of the Opera). What makes this district special to me though, is the charm that each neighborhood brings. Especially on rainy days, check out covered passageways like Galerie Vivienne, Passage des Panoramas, and Passage Choiseul.
Streets to explore:
Rue Réaumur
There is something about starting my day with a workout that exudes positive vibes. I love that there is a Barry’s Bootcamp in Paris, it’s the only one in France! The crew here is incredibly welcoming and the instructors lead the class in both French and English. Taking classes here has allowed me to connect with people and practice my French! It is also incredibly central, just a 5-minute walk from the Réaumur - Sébastopol M3 line
Rue Montorgueil and Rue du Nil
These streets are lined with French restaurants, cafés, bakeries, cheese shops, wine shops, produce stands, and flower shops. After your morning workout (or not), walk to one of the countless boulangeries (bakeries) for coffee and pastries. Croissants are my favorite pastry, so I usually order a classic butter or almond croissant. France makes the best croissants because of their high-quality butter. A classic French croissant has 55 layers (27 layers of butter), providing a premium texture. Almond croissants also get a shout-out for their frangipane (almost paste). I don’t know how it’s done differently in France, but it is so good. Also, lattes and cappuccinos aren’t a thing in Europe, so I recommend ordering espresso with your pastry of choice!
BO&MIE opened its doors in 2017 and has been winning awards ever since. Their trendy cafe offers all the classic but specialty pastries too like the pain au praline (croissant with praline and feuilletine) or the croissant framboise (raspberry croissant)
Boulangerie Midoré - Réaumur is what I expect from a classic boulangerie. In addition to pastries (try their almond croissant) they also offer sandwiches and salads. Sandwiches in France are DELICIOUS and a great lunch option when exploring neighborhoods. My favorite sandwich is a Jambon Beurre (ham and butter). This is the OG — classic, simple, and delicious. If that seems too basic for you, consider a Croque Monsieur (ham and cheese), Saucisson sec (salami), or Pâté et Cornichons (pork meat spread and pickled cucumbers)
Rex Club is located just a few blocks from Rue du Nil and is known for its EDM vibes. I love the club scene in Paris because the vibes are casual, the entrance fee is reasonable (€15), and there’s a coat check! Coat check is clutch in the wintertime when it’s 30 degrees outside and you’re not trying to wear a turtleneck on the dance floor
The Notre-Dame de Paris is a medieval Catholic cathedral located at Île de la Cité (an island on the Seine River) of the 4th district. Since there are so many sites to see in Paris and time is limited, I try to narrow down how many places I commit to visiting. I can confirm that the Notre-Dame is totally worth the visit! The rose-colored windows, medieval chandeliers, and beautifully constructed arches are breathtaking. Bonus: given the location of the Notre-Dame, you also get the best views of the Seine River, especially at night.
If you stick around for dinner, check out La Mangerie, a lively tapas and wine bar in the heart of the Marais neighborhood in the 4th district. This place is such a vibe! It’s one of the most beautifully decorated restaurants I’ve ever been in. It’s the perfect spot for a cute date night where you can enjoy solid cocktails and share 4-5 tapas! They offer a variety of cocktails including mojitos, caipirinhas, margaritas and unique house-made specials. For wine, there had options from France and South America. What really impressed me was that more than half the wine menu was available by the glass. I think it’s way more fun to try a few different wines rather than committing to a single bottle, so their wine menu made me really happy. For tapas, we shared:
Saumon Gravlax, salade de choux et argumes au basilic (cured salmon with cabbage and citrus salad with basil) €16
This dish was so refreshing! Salmon Gravlax is similar to Lox, but is cured differently. While Lox is prepared with salt, Gravlax is prepared with salad, sugar, herbs, and oil. This results in the salmon having a more mild flavor, closer to sashimi. I love this because it allows for more versatility in dishes
Les croquetas de poulet (chicken croquettes) €15
I was genuinely sad seeing only 4 of these perfectly fried bite-sized pieces on a plate, they disappeared quickly
Gambas, polenta crémeuse et pak choï (prawns, creamy polenta and bok choy) €16
Again, sad to find only 3 shrimp, but at least they were decently sized and seared nicely
Jamon iberico 30 mois d’affinage (Iberian ham, matured 30 months) €16
You cannot go wrong with Iberian ham, especially the kind that spent 30 months maturing! This was solid
Onglet de boeuf de Galice, grenailles confites (hanger steak with potatoes) €18
This hanger steak was dynamite, delicately sliced, and pink all the way through — picture-perfect (literally)
If you want a nightcap after dinner, walk around the corner to Vins des Pyrénées, a restaurant with unique wine offerings, they even have a wine cellar across the street for purchase! Since we were stuffed from La Mangerie, we didn’t order food (their menu looked fantastic though). Instead, we tasted a few wines before committing to a glass each. I loved the wine selection here because there was so much variety. This was the first time I looked at a wine menu and had basically zero knowledge of what I was reading. I was happy for this new exposure and to learn about their wine selection process in general. Since many of these wines are lesser known, the price point was fantastic, most glasses were €7-9!
my favorite RESTAURANTS AND NIGHTLIFE
LE Cinquième (5th): The Latin Quarter (NIGHTLIFE)
LE sixième (6th): Luxembourg (RESTAURANTS)
LE septièmE (7th): ThE EIFFEL TOWER
LE onzième (11th): The cool part of town(NIGHTLIFE)
Whether it’s my 1st or 100th time in Paris, I will always end up in these districts because of the food and nightlife. The 5th district has become my favorite area in Paris because of the wide range of restaurants and vibrant nightlife. You can find cafes, bistros, pubs, and clubs starting from the Saint-Michel metro station and extending through the Latin Quarter.
There is no shortage of restaurants in this district and they all vary significantly in type. Usually, I’m in the mood for a traditional French restaurant like Le Bistro du Périgord, where you can get 3 courses for €36! This humble, family-owned restaurant is a hidden gem! Although their menu may not be huge, everything they put out is solid and I appreciate the non-corporate vibes:
Other times, I want to try something more modern, like Sourire, a French tapas restaurant. This place does a great job of using classic French cooking techniques to highlight less traditional ingredients. The menu is also often rotating, so you’re always in for something fun and different:
For nightlife, you are looking for something casual, affordable, and youthful, check out SalSero, a really fun Latin pub with great music and service. If you want to level up, I highly recommend going dancing at Caveau de la Huchette, a cool jazz club with live music. My friend Joel and I were in the mood to go dancing one night, the kind of dancing where you have a partner and proper steps to follow. I had never experienced a jazz club before but at Joel’s nudge to embrace Paris and try something different, I went and it was an amazing experience!
You can’t help but be in a great mood when you’re here because the music is contagious; literally, everyone is dancing and truly enjoying themselves. You don’t need to be an expert or arrive with a date. The crowd widely varies in age and it’s an incredibly inclusive environment. I had no idea what kind of dancing was happening, but I easily partnered up with a total stranger, a sweet older man who helped me with my steps. The mood here is just really cool. It’s not weird or creepy, it’s genuinely fun. We left smiling ear to ear, and to this day, it’s one of my favorite memories of all time.
This was probably the first time in my life that I was spontaneous towards something that made me a little uncomfortable. This experience reminded me I had been living a monotonous, predictable lifestyle. And while that’s not necessarily bad, why limit myself to one box? Why should anyone? If you allow it, the magic of Paris can sweep you into new experiences and perspectives!
If you decide to stay in the area, I suggest staying at the Hotel Trianon Rive Gauche in the 6th district. It averages $175/night. This hotel is great for groups of 3 and 4. They have options like 3 single beds in 1 room, or 1 queen and 2 single beds in adjoining rooms. It’s also centrally located, just a 10-minute walk from cute brasseries like Les Deux Magots, where you can enjoy some wine, people watch, and take your time
For lunch, make a reservation at Le Crépuscule, an adorable and affordable creperie! Galettes (crepes) are made of buckwheat flour and water. Yes, an incredibly simple concept, but so delicious and satisfying when executed properly — a must in France. Why? Because they are the size of your head, crispy at the bottom, and customizable! It’s also a great option if you want a sit-down lunch in a limited time window. I appreciate Le Crépuscule’s authenticity and simple approach. You come in, enjoy, and keep it moving. You can pick one of their specialty crepes or create your own. I did the latter and ordered:
Galette avec 3 ingrédients au choix: crepe with 3 ingredients of choice €9.50
I chose to have ham, mushrooms, and tomato in my crepe and then added an egg for €1
Verre de vin rouge14cl (~4.5oz): Glass of red wine €4.90
I was ecstatic to see both Bordeaux and Burgundy wine offered by the glass for less than €5!
And finally, drum roll, please! My favorite spot in ALL of Paris, the place I never leave Paris without pigging out at lives in the 6th district: L’avant Comptoir de la Terre / L'Avant Comptoir du Marché. Originally, just L’avant Comptoir existed, and then they opened L’avant Comptoir de la Terre next door. Today, both standing-room-only French tapas and wine bars still exist side by side, with a 3rd location, L'Avant Comptoir du Marché, just a 5-minute walk around the corner.
L’avant Comptoir was originally mentioned by Anthony Bourdain (RIP legend) back in 2012. Being a genuine fan of his work, I always kept a short list of his standout mentions, and if the stars aligned, I would dine in a place he once did. This place is truly one-of-a-kind. It’s incredibly tiny but mighty. They are consistently busting out amazing dishes given limited space and a high volume of orders. The food menu items hang from the ceiling, the specials are written on a chalkboard, and although they offer many kinds of wine, an actual wine list does not exist. The difference between the two locations is L’avant Comptoir de la Terre is more seafood-focused, while L'Avant Comptoir du Marché is more pork-focused. Each location has its specialty items, but there’s crossover too. For example, you’ll find scallops at both locations, but the sauce or topping might vary. How do you know where to go? You experience both, of course!
For drinks, they offer sparkling, white, and red wine. I recommend starting with a glass of champagne and then moving to red wine. White wine is fine, but why order white when you can have champagne? For food, I will pray for you. Your best chance to try everything is to come here with friends or make friends with other customers and share! I have been here so many times now that I can confidently say everything is good. I’ve had their seafood (scallops, squid, tuna), vegetables (mushrooms and asparagus), protein (pork, sausage, terrine, duck, beef), and dessert (crème brûlée, macaron). Order something from every major category in your first round so you get a lay of the land before engaging in the next.
While everything here is fantastic, I do have a favorite. And when I say favorite, I mean the greatest of all time. If I were on my deathbed, I would have their Croque Queue de Boeuf — this oxtail sandwich is the best thing ever to exist in my lifetime thus far. It is the perfect sandwich. The oxtail is so juicy and tender. It is generously pressed between two slices of buttered, pan-fried bread and served with horseradish aioli. I love it so much that I eat at least 2 of these every time I am in Paris.
Sylvain, who had been working here for years, had been my server since my very first visit. In my opinion, he was the heart of this place, always sharp as a tack and impressively keeping track of everyone’s orders. He would playfully make fun of my French but also help me improve my pronunciation. Over the years, he has made L’avant Comptoir de la Terre feel like a second home to me. As of the fall of 2023, he has left to begin the process of opening up his very own restaurant. As soon as it opens and I get more information, I’ll be sure to add it to this entry! In the meantime, I still have the best time here as I get to know their next generation of staff and it continues to be my #1 recommendation in Paris.
The Eiffel Tower is the first thing that pops up when you research the 7th district. One may argue that you haven’t seen Paris until you see the Eiffel Tower. I have seen the Eiffel Tower from more viewpoints than I can count, including the 360 view of Paris at the top, which is terrifying for anyone afraid of heights. It was also incredibly windy and cold up there! It was cool to check that box off my list, but honestly, I enjoy admiring it from the ground:
After you’re done admiring the Eiffel Tower, you’ve got plenty of yummy food options nearby:
Cocorico: a casual cafe great for lunch, offering snacks and entrees beyond the regular French menu. Since I had a lot of beef by the time I got to the Eiffel Tower, so it was nice to mix it up and order their roast chicken with thyme and rosemary sauce, €23
Bistro Chez France: a classic French bistro (casual ambiance and smaller menu). For lunch, I opted for 2 courses for €33: Burgundy snails and French duck breast with orange sauce
Les Cocottes: slightly more expensive with a modern ambiance, but good for group dinners. We shared the country-style terrine, Burgundy snails, beef bourguignon, beef tartare
If you know me, you know that taking a cooking class is my favorite way to get hands-on culture and meet locals. To me, nothing beats connecting with people around a dinner table. While I have enjoyed every style of cooking class, my favorite is with Marthe Brohan, whom I met in 2022 through Viator. She and her husband used to own a restaurant in Paris, and have since retired. Spending your morning with Marthe is like spending your morning with an extended family member. Her classes are about 4 hours long and are intended for small/private groups, allowing you to take your time and get to know each other. I love her cooking classes because she doesn’t rush you. She spends time getting to know you and your food preferences. She’ll suggest dishes based on your feedback and is happy to continue discussing until everyone is happy with the menu. She’s incredibly casual and non-judgmental about everything, so naturally, you will feel comfortable around her.
You begin the day at her home in the 7th district for introductions. Together, you will bus/walk to a loved local bakery (Maison Verot or Des Gâteaux et du Pain) to pick up fresh bread and an outdoor market (either Marché Raspail or Marché Saxe Breteuil). I appreciate starting cooking classes this way because you get to experience Paris like a local and learn a bit of history along the way. Walking through the market with Marthe is fun because she’ll let you know her favorite stalls, which ones have great deals, and give you time to pick up whatever you’re drawn to. There’s also more than just food stalls, like specialty spices and cashmere scarves!
Once you’re back at her flat, the cooking begins! As a group, you’ll divide up prep work to make a starter, entree, and dessert. All her recipes are classic and easy to follow. Her process is a great reminder that food doesn’t have to be complicated to be great. She openly shares unique twists to sauces and tips for using ingredients efficiently. As we finish up in the kitchen, we set the table, enjoy a glass of wine and eat together. Here’s what we’ve made together:
April 2022: Mediterranean Salad, Curry Mustard Cod, Madeleines
A curry mustard sauce is the last thing I would have ever come up with on my own, but this was dynamite, and definitely the highlight of that cooking session. I requested to make madeleines for dessert and I was shocked at how easy they were to make. They had the perfect density and weren’t too sweet. She even wrapped up the extras for me
November 2023: Asparagus with Vinaigrette Sauce, Chicken with Two Vinegars, Chocolate Fondant
In this session, I learned several new techniques, including a new way to prepare asparagus and how to make balanced sauces with different vinegars. Also, that chocolate fondant cake used nearly no flour! I was shocked that just 6 ingredients made such a decadent cake
She sends you all the recipes via e-mail afterward, along with a list of her favorite places in Paris. If there are other recipes you’re interested in, let her know and she’ll send you those too! Everything I’ve made under her guidance has been delicious and tied to memories I hold near and dear to my heart. I look forward to cooking with her every time I return to Paris.
Lastly, I recommend visiting the 11th district because of it’s numerous small cafes and really fun night life! I stopped by Maison Landemaine randomly, and later learned it was a bakery recommended by David Lebovitz! I think this is currently my favorite almond croissant because the almond paste is present in every bite, rather than just in the center. Also, this thing was huge, I took the below selfie AFTER I had already taken two bites!
In the evening, my friend took me to J Club, in the heart of the Bastille/Oberkampf neighborhood. There are clubs on clubs on clubs here and we had a blast! This is definitely where the locals go and I can totally see why. I love that you can get disco vibes at one club and then EDM at another!
The 11th district is a tiny bit further away from central Paris, but totally doable. I recommend bar hopping in the 3rd/5th district until about 10PM, and then making your way to Bastille for clubbing, dancing until the wee hours of the night.
CULTURAL HUB
neuvième (9th): Opéra
dixième (10th): Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est
While the 9th and 10th districts aren’t considered the heart of Paris, there’s a lot here, including the two busiest train stations, the north and east. I consider these districts a cultural hub because while they still have many Parisian attractions, it’s also a melting pot of different cultures where many locals reside. The restaurants and bars in this district are more unique and have a little more flare to them. I have a feeling they’ll continue to grow and expand, attracting more tourists over time. Also, it’s more budget-friendly accommodation-wise
The Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann in the 9th district has a terrace Even for the non-shopper, this 8-story department store featuring the Art Nouveau dome is worth seeing in person. Upon entering, you will find a gorgeous staircase that leads you to over 2,000 fashion brands. Make your way to the 8th-floor terrace, where you can enjoy drinks, small bites, and a beautiful city view, including the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame Cathedral:
What I love about the 9th district are all of the food options. Yes, you can find plenty of traditional French restaurants, but there are healthy options too:
Cloud Cakes: This little cafe is cozy and thoughtful, offering way more than just coffee. My friend and I were ecstatic to see parfaits, toasts, acai bowls, fresh salads, and desserts on the menu. We decided to stay for breakfast and ordered way more than we intended including a fresh veggie salad, a tart, and a slice of their heavenly carrot cake
Acai and You: This coffee and brunch spot was exactly what we needed after a night of heavy food and copious amounts of alcohol. This place does way more than just acai bowls, including toasts, salads, and protein bowls. I tried beet hummus for the first time here and was immediately hooked. We demolished that appetizer quickly. For our mains, I ordered the Samba Protein Bowl (marinated salmon, sushi rice, avocado mango, edamame) while Joel ordered a traditional acai bowl packed with mango and bananas. Both of these were phenomenal, ultimately I was in a savory mood so the salmon bowl made sense for me, but I really loved Joel’s too. Our bowls were also generously portioned. I’m genuinely sad we don’t have an Acai and You in the States
Marché Saint Quentin: This large food market is amazing! It’s located between Gare du Nord and Gare de l'Est and offers so many different food stalls. We loved that it was off the beaten path. I had two favorite stalls, the first sold a variety of terrines that were fantastic, I was so sad to only have picked two! The second was a Portuguese stall. Both my friend and I had recently been to Portugal and loved it, so when we met Sylvia, we really just hit it off. She treated us like we were family (literally, we even met her son) and we didn’t want to leave. We had her soup, chorizo, octopus, and pastel de nata and everything took us right back to Portugal. We genuinely came to this market with no expectations and left with a full heart.
The 9th district is also known for its numerous theatre venues. My French teacher mentioned the show, How to Become a Parisian in One Hour by Olivier Giraud, and although it wasn’t my first time in Paris, it was for a friend of mine so we decided to book it. This show is a really cute, light-hearted introduction to Paris and has been around for over 10 years and we both had a grea time. I think Olivier does a great job engaging the audience and cheekily poking fun at every culture. He had me laughing so hard that I wished I hadn’t had a glass of champagne right before the show started! I met Olivier in person after the show and he’s every bit as kind as he is on stage. A great activity to experience before a dinner reservation!
As you exit the 9th district and enter the 10th, check out Boteca Lapa! I freaking love this place! I had one of their signature cocktails, the Coco Lulu, a rum-based cocktail mixed with coconut, with a toasted coconut rim — I know it sounds weird but this drink was not sweet, it was incredibly well balanced! I had no shame licking the rim of my glass to get every last crumb of toasted coconut. I had a glass of white wine from Southern France afterwards and I highly approve! A 15cl (5 oz) glass was a humble €5.5. Definitely check this place out!
BEYOND CENTRAL PARIS
LE quatorzième (14th): CATACOMBS
Le dix-septième (17th):PEACEFUL VILLAGE VIBES
dix-huitième (18th): MONTMARTE
While these districts aren’t what I would recommend for your first trip, they do have some cool activities and restaurants that are great to experience. The 14th district is known for the Paris Observatory and the Catacombs and is an easy metro ride from the 5th and 6th districts. Although I couldn’t make time for the observatory, I did tour the Catacombs of Paris and it was as educational and intriguing as it was ominous. The Catacombs of Paris are essentially underground ossuaries that hold the remains of more than 6 million Parisians. It was created to eliminate the overflow of cemeteries and was largely forgotten about until the 19th century. Its unusual history is worth the visit!
Joel and I were also in the 14th district to take a baguette and croissant making class at a traditional bakery and it was so much fun! I have such a deep respect for breadmakers, it truly is an art and a labor of love. After learning about butter and the many types of bread made in France, we got to roll croissant dough and design our own baguettes! The entire class was about 2 hours, which went by so fast since you’re learning as much as you’re physically working. You get to take home the bread you designed at the end, which I happily snacked on as we made our way back to the metro station
Due to failed travel logistics during Covid, we booked a room at the Holiday Inn Paris - Gare de l’Est in the 10th district since it was close to the train station we needed to leave from. Although our stay was unplanned, we decided to use it as an opportunity to discover the neighboring 17th and 18th districts. The 17th district is much quieter than central Paris but still lined with plenty of adorable shops and restaurants. The 18th district is artsy and diverse. It’s also more affordable, so many locals live in this district and it definitely was a big reason why I felt the most like a local when exploring the area. It has a really cool mix of history, music (including Moulin Rouge), and food! Places we enjoyed:
Perlimpinpin: This restaurant is so unique, allowing you to create your own tartare sampler starting at €15! You start by picking your protein base (fish, meat, or vegetarian), followed by a dressing for each one (they offer 12 kinds), and lastly, an optional topping or two. Joel and I each made our platter and enjoyed fresh oysters too. Their wines by the glass averaged €8, which was a steal! This place gave happy hour vibes without the time restriction
Mon Loup: This pick was completely random and became one of our favorites. We weren’t particularly interested in having a full meal, but we were ready for a snack and a seat. We noticed happy customers relaxing in Mon Loup’s cozy ambiance, decided to peak at the menu, and were immediately sold. Their menu was simple, offering just a few items per section, which signaled us to believe whatever they were making, they must do well because the place was packed. Even though it was busy, the staff was so friendly and patient, consistently checking on us. The experience here was just easy and lighthearted from start to finish. The bread was warm, the wine was legit, the terrine and rillettes hit the spot, and the apple compote sent Joel and me straight into a food coma
Sacrée Fleur: We had no idea we found a hidden gem until our gigantic 1kg prime rib platter (meant to be shared between 2 people at €69) came out. When I say this cut of beef was melt-in-your-mouth, honey! It was magical and even though this was shared amongst 3 people, we couldn’t finish it! Also, their shallot and peppercorn sauce had a serious depth of flavor to them. They were thick, rich, and decadent. Even though we were stuffed, we ordered dessert anyway, because we saw the word flambée. If a dessert comes with a show, there’s a solid chance it will make it to the table. This apple tart flambée was figurative and literal fire
